Welcome back to The Weekly Table.
This week is all about flavour, and two of my three picks are in Notting Hill. One is so new it’s barely opened its doors, and you’re hearing about it here before the reel goes up. One is a Michelin Bib Gourmand curry house that proves you don’t need a tasting-menu budget to eat seriously well. And one is a Japanese-Peruvian gem that more people need to know about.
As always, you’ll find what I ordered, what I’d go back for, what I’d skip, and who each spot is perfect for. Let’s eat.
Cordelia’s, Mayfair
Live-fire steakhouse in Mayfair
Cordelia’s only opened at the end of August, so you’re hearing about it here before the reel goes up. It has taken over the old L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon site on Clarges Street, a short walk from Green Park, and everything revolves around fire. The charcoal grills sit in an open kitchen, so the cooking is part of the show.
What I ordered
Focaccia and homemade butter. I never knew homemade butter could be this good. It’s seasoned beautifully and super smooth, probably the smoothest butter I’ve ever tasted. The focaccia comes fresh and cut into chunks, ready for dipping. A great way to begin.
Grilled octopus with ajo blanco. A fantastic dish. The octopus is grilled to perfection and charred on the outside, but the ajo blanco is the real star. It has a slight sweetness that pairs perfectly with the octopus and brings the whole plate together.
Mini brisket sliders. We had to. Juicy, tender brisket with smoked cheddar and onion jam, and the jam lifts everything with a beautiful sweetness.
British Wagyu x T-bone. The main event, and a phenomenal steak. Cooked to absolute perfection, juicy and tender. It’s a cross between Black Angus and British Wagyu, which I think is why it felt rich without leaving us overly full. The quality was insane. Get it with the peppercorn sauce, which was delicious.
The sides. The truffle mash is a must: super smooth, with the truffle as a great extra touch. The charred tenderstem broccoli arrives on a bed of tahini and is beautiful. The mac and cheese could have been a little cheesier.
Dessert. An Italian meringue tart and a sticky toffee pudding. Both were spot on.
The verdict
Go back for: the British Wagyu x T-bone, the truffle mash and that butter.
Could skip: the mac and cheese, if you’re choosing between sides.
Perfect for: steak lovers who want to taste top-quality beef, or a special occasion in Mayfair.
Price per head: £100+
▶ My Cordelia’s reel goes this week on Instagram.
Empire Empire, Notting Hill
Punjabi and Northwest Indian cooking with a 70s disco soundtrack
There are over 3,000 Indian restaurants in London, so standing out takes something special. Empire Empire has done it: it holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand, the Guide’s nod for exceptional food at accessible prices.
It comes from Harneet Baweja, the founder behind Gunpowder, and it’s tucked away on All Saints Road in Notting Hill. The menu draws on the cooking of Punjab and Northwest India, and the room leans fully into 70s Indian disco. But it’s the food that does the talking. I’m all about bold flavours, and this place delivers on them, dish after dish.
What I ordered
Lucknowi lamb chops. The reason you book. Tender, juicy and charred to perfection, served with a sharp onion salad to cut through it all.
Kale patta chaat. So good. Crispy kale with a subtle sweetness from the tamarind, balanced by cool yoghurt. Every bite has crunch, sweet and tang at once.
Tandoori malai broccoli. Broccoli is one of my favourite vegetables, so I was intrigued. It’s essentially broccoli coated in a cream cheese marinade. Fine, but nothing to rave about next to everything else.
Lamb shank dum biryani. It arrives sealed under a golden pastry lid, which makes for a great moment at the table. The lamb was beautifully cooked and super tender. I did wish for a little more flavour, but it’s still a very strong dish.
King prawns kadhai masala. Juicy prawns, great flavour and a proper kick. One for anyone who likes a bit of heat.
Empire butter chicken with garlic naan. Rich and creamy, exactly what you want from a butter chicken. Use the fresh garlic naan to mop up every last bit of sauce.
Dessert: order both. There are only two on the menu, and both earn their place. The gulab jamun and meringue cheesecake is unlike any cheesecake I’ve ever tasted. The saffron milk cake, topped with fresh cream, is lighter and just as memorable.
The verdict
Go back for: the lamb chops, the kale patta chaat and both desserts.
Could skip: the malai broccoli, if you’re choosing between starters.
Perfect for: a fun dinner with friends, a date night with a soundtrack, or anyone who wants Michelin-level cooking without the Michelin price tag.
Price per head: £60
Good to know: I visited earlier in the year, so check the menu before you go. A couple of dishes may have changed.
▶ Haven’t seen the reel yet? Watch it on Instagram
Fan, Notting Hill
Neo-Nikkei: Japanese technique, Peruvian soul, Chinese accents
More people need to know about this place. Fan is a Michelin Guide restaurant tucked away on Chepstow Road, serving Japanese and Peruvian fusion that’s fresh, precise and packed with flavour.
The story behind Fan
Fan is run by three childhood friends from Lima: chef Jorge “Coco” Sasaki, Romina Parra and Santiago Won. It all began with the three of them cooking for friends, and it grew into one of Lima’s best-loved Nikkei spots. Notting Hill is their first restaurant outside Latin America.
Nikkei is the cooking of Peru’s Japanese community: Japanese technique meets Peruvian ingredients. Fan takes it a step further. Romina and Santiago are of Cantonese descent, so Chinese flavours run through the menu too. The trio call it neo-Nikkei, and they call their regulars their “FANmily”.
How to order
There are two routes: an à la carte menu split into cold and hot sharers, nigiri and maki, or a tasting menu if you want the kitchen to take the lead.
What I ordered
Ceviche Fan. The perfect start. Super-fresh catch of the day in a smoked yellow chilli tiger milk, with huge kernels of Peruvian corn and crispy calamari for crunch.
Tuna taco tempura. Probably one of the best dishes of the night. Fresh tuna served in a warm, crispy spinach tempura taco. Great flavours, great texture.
The nigiri. If you love fresh, flavourful nigiri, this is your spot. Everything we tried was good, but two stood out. The pachikay, with catch of the day (seabass for us) topped with crispy fish skin, and the hotate fan, with scallop and spicy crab.
Udon de mariscos. I was on the fence about this one, and I’m glad I ordered it. Prawn and squid udon in a piquillo pepper sauce. It wasn’t what I expected: the flavour is there without being overpowering, and it coats every noodle.
The verdict
Go back for: the tuna taco tempura and the hotate fan nigiri.
Perfect for: a special occasion, an elevated lunch or dinner, or sushi lovers who want something they won’t find anywhere else.
Tip: this one is on the pricier side. For a lower-cost way in, try the day menu priced at £39pp (not available Friday and Saturday evenings).
Price per head: £100
▶ Haven’t seen the reel yet? Watch it on Instagram
Until next week
That’s a wrap on edition three. If you go to any of these, tell me what you ordered. Reply to this email or tag me on Instagram, I read everything.
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The Cordelia’s reel lands this week, so keep an eye on my page.
See you at the next table,
Priscilla